Hello there.
So for the past week I've been in Southeast Asia's non-Muslim archipelgo country.
This trip has definitely had its own share of setbacks. For one thing, on my first day, I had a jarring pain in my jaw, which was the worst pain of any type I've had in over 10 years, and it was bad enough to cause me to go to the hospital for the first time (for my own condition) in over 10 years. So within 24 hours of the Philippines, I was sitting in a hospital in Manila.
The 2nd major setback has been the weather. Not only did the constant rain make my holiday just slightly less pleasant, but I got caught in the middle of Manila's worst typhoon in decades (see http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/asia-pacific/8277018.stm). More on that later.
So the jaw pain wound up being some viral infection in my sinuses... yay! The hospital, in case you were wondering, was a private hospital that was reasonably well-equipped, given what one might expect in a country like the Philippines. I didnt have to wait at all, and they were very nice to me. Of course, I had to pay for all of this.... but the consultation, medicines, and even the x-ray all together added up to about 60$ USD... which I suppose isnt so bad.
Miraculously, by the next day, the pain had mostly subsided. Although the infection stuck with me throughout my trip, the pain never got anything close to what it was when I arrived on Sunday, so it didn't really effect the rest of my trip.
Manila
On Monday I spent the day sightseeing in Manila. it's not exactly one of SEA's most touristy cities, but there are a few sights, most notably Intramuros, the walled city from the early days of Spanish rule:
Aside from that, though, I wouldn't say there is too many sites in Manila. What is interesting about Manila is the different neighbourhoods.... like Chinatown, Ermita (a really dodgy area with a HUGE shopping mall thrown in), Malate (backpacker central, with touristy bars and restaurants, with loads of slums and beggers), and Makati (upmarket CBD area with Manila's elites and expats... you could mistake parts of it for Singapore!). Makati aside, Manila is in general a rather poor city. Infrustructure is in mediocre shape. Slums and squatter settlements abound, along with beggers and street kids. Yet even with all of these slums, Manila has loooooooads of 7-elevens, McDonalds, and even some of the less common US chain outlets (TGI Fridays, Sbarro, Subway, Taco Bell, Wendy's, you name it....).
What I find interesting about SEA is that each country's major city is quite different (having seen, now, 6 of them). Manila is no exception. Perhaps it can be best compared to Bangkok, with its horrible traffic and extreme contrasts between rich and poor. Yet Bangkok is markedly more developed than Manila... it is also more overwhelming. Maybe it is becuase I"m a more seasoned traveller now than when I stepped foot in Bangkok, but Manila has this curious safe feeling... although the traffic is a mess, and there are very few crosswalks to speak of.... there is a certain calm to it. I'm not sure how many people would agree with me, but Manila just seems a lot less overwhelming a) then I expected, and b) then other developing world cities.
Nicest thing about Manila is the cheap transport. Although some taxi drivers will certainly rip you off, if they use their meter (which, unlike in Bangkok and KL is 90% of the time it seems), even a ride all around town shouldn't cost more than $3-$4 USD... most roads are closer to the $2 category. Alternatively, there is the jeepney- the iconic mass transit vehicle of the Philippines. Somewhat of a cross between a jeep and a bus, the jeepney has an array of routes that no visitor could ever hope to figure out.... the "destinations" are written on the front, so the best bet is just to hop in and hope you end up somewhere near where you want to go. The good news: a ride across town costs between PHP 7-9 (less than $0,20 USD).
Kalibo/Boracay
On Tuesday I flew towards Kalibo, the gateway to Boracay (the top tourist destination of the Philippines). Since time was on my side, and it was reasonably late when I landed, I decided to spend the night in Kalibo, a random and uremarketable Philipine town. I walked around abit, ate in a local place, and I had the best meal I had had up to that point. The touristy restaurants in Manila were, well, terrible. I always tried the "Filipino" food, which, as it were, ended up being nothing more than some fried meat on a plate with rice. No sauce... no vegetables. Not to satisfying. In Kalibo I had pork adobo - the national dish. THe Pork is stewed in a sauce of vinegar and garlic... it's not the best thing in the world, but its more than edible. Oh, and it was much cheaper than eating in the touristy places.
On Wed I went to Boracay. This involved a 2 hr bus ride (at the price of 2$ USD) and a 15 minute ferry ride (another $2 USD). Boracay, as it were, is tourist central... which means that everything is more expensive than in other places. However, it's the "lean season". The good news? Hotel rooms are 50% of what they would be in the high season. I got a place which was quite nice by my standards (nice bed, proper bathroom, air-con, tv) for about USD $19 a night - and that was after bargaining!
The bad news? Rainy season in Boracay is not like rainy season in Thailand, SIngpaore, or Easter Island (namely, intermittent rain and sunshine). DUring my time in Boracay, it rained almost the ENTIRE time. WHen it wasnt raining, it was overcast and windy. I think I got a total of 2 hours of relatively decent weather, where the sun, although visible, was blocked by only a thin layer of clouds.
That aside... Boracay is still a wonderful place. Yes, it is EXTREMELY touristy. But sometimes, touristy is nice. For one thing, the beach is GORGEOUS. Everything you would ever want in a tropical beach... complete with cocktails delivered to your lounge chair (in my case, I got a glass of red wine for about USD 3,50$). All over the beach are bars and restaurants, including all you can eat seafood/meat/whatever else buffets for about $5 USD, along with live music to set the mood. Boracay really is a special place, and it was a nice place for me to relax... bad weather aside.
Saturday: day of craziness
By Saturday I still had ambitious plans for the rest of my Philipines itinerary. that night I would fly to Manila, where I would hope to catch a bus to Angeles (small city north of manila, and location of the airport I arrived in from Singapore), where I would be able to organise a day trip to Mt. Pinatubo. Things go awry sometimes.
I checked out around noon. As my flight wasnt until 18:45, I had more than enough time to spare. I had a quick lunch, and made it out to the Boracay harbour, if I can call it that. WHen I arrived there, around 12:30, I realised something was fishy when I saw lots of ppl waiting, along with 7 full boats just sitting in the ocean. No one told me anything, not even when I bought my ticket. An hour later, the boats returned to the short and unloaded all the passengers; the coast guards said that no boats would be allowed to leave. One ambitious taxi driver informed me that there would be no more boats, and that I should spend another night in Boracay. I got a second opinion, which is, at it seems, always a good idea in the Philippines. This guy, whose uniform gave him the appearance of having more authority, informed me that due to bad weather, no boats were allowed to leave, but this could change in the upcoming hours. He told me my best bet was to wait until 17:00. I had nowhere to go, and, even though it was raining and there were no shelters, I was equipped with my umbrella and stood on the rain-drenched beach waiting for something to happen.
By 15:00 they announced that the boats could resume, and there was a mad dash for all the boats. Luckily, I got on one and by 15:30 I had made it to the other side, even if the small boat coupled with the bad weather meant I would be drenched.
From the other side (Cacitlan), I got a shuttle to Kalibo airprt, where I arrived by about 17:30. I checked in my flight, which ended up being delayed. No big deal... as long as it comes eventually, I thought to myself. As long as I get in Manila I'll be ok.
Oh, the flight did come. By 19:45 I was on the plane, and by 21:00 I had landed in Manila. Niavely, I still thought I could make it to Angeles that night. In the airport, I realised something was fishy, as there were loads of people waiting... in the arrival area! I asked the information desk about how to get to Angeles.... they told me I'd be lucky to get to Manila, let alone Angeles. Indeed, they informed me that no ground transport was leaving the airport, and thats why all these people were waiting there. Oiiiiii, I thought to myself that I had never been stranded in an airport AFTER a flight before. I resigned to this and waited for about half an hour. It was 21:30 by now and before resigning to attempting to sleep I wanted to know how long it would be liked this. So, true to the theme in the Philippines, I sought a 2nd opinion, who informed me I could try and get a taxi from the upstairs departure area. With some luck and patience, after about another 30 mins, I got another taxi, who, given the situation, charged me an exorbatant PHP 500 (about $11 USD) for a ride into town... this was AFTER he originally proposed PHP700! To give folks at home an idea, the ride *should* cost between PHP 150 and 250.
Oh, the flight did come. By 19:45 I was on the plane, and by 21:00 I had landed in Manila. Niavely, I still thought I could make it to Angeles that night. In the airport, I realised something was fishy, as there were loads of people waiting... in the arrival area! I asked the information desk about how to get to Angeles.... they told me I'd be lucky to get to Manila, let alone Angeles. Indeed, they informed me that no ground transport was leaving the airport, and thats why all these people were waiting there. Oiiiiii, I thought to myself that I had never been stranded in an airport AFTER a flight before. I resigned to this and waited for about half an hour. It was 21:30 by now and before resigning to attempting to sleep I wanted to know how long it would be liked this. So, true to the theme in the Philippines, I sought a 2nd opinion, who informed me I could try and get a taxi from the upstairs departure area. With some luck and patience, after about another 30 mins, I got another taxi, who, given the situation, charged me an exorbatant PHP 500 (about $11 USD) for a ride into town... this was AFTER he originally proposed PHP700! To give folks at home an idea, the ride *should* cost between PHP 150 and 250.
To make matters worse, I had no hotel reservation, and I didn't exactly know where to go. The advice of the security guards was to find a cheap hotel in Pasay City, near the bus station. That area, it seemed, was under water and unaccessible! The driver suggested instead Makati... and I was like... sure as long as I can stay somewhere reasonably cheap. THey took me to a cheap hotel, which was full, as were all the neighbouring hotels. This was due to the fact that these hotels were used by locals as "massage parlours", or to have some fun with their girlfriends. My next plan was to try Malate, where I stayed before. After a very long cab ride, which invovled trying to drive through rivers, I realised that the city really was mostly underwater, and there was no way I would get anywhere other than Makati- I was lucky that Makati wasn't flooded. So, I go to one of the main streets in Makati (a PHP 300 cab ride basically brought me in a giant circle) to a pretty posh hotel. A bit expensive, but at least I can sleep. Noppppppe. Becuase of all the flight cancellations, the hotel was booked, along with EVERY HOTEL in the area.
I was desperate. I turned to my lonely planet, and started to call every hotel in Makati. With a huge stroke of luck, one of the dingier ones was still free (and I saved quite a bit of money in the process). After turning on the TV, I realised just how big of a deal this rain really was.
That brins us to today (Sunday). I arrived in Angeles, but I have long abandoned my plans to climb Pinatubo. The extraordinarily bad weather, coupled with really tight time (I'd have to make it to this small town 50 km from Angeles with poor public transit AND hope that some ppl would lead me on a tour) and complicated by being along (which means that the whole thing would be REALLY expensive, if possible at all) made this idea seem not so good. On the plus side, my hotel here is pretty nice, if a bit expensive (about USD 23 per night) and the internet is super cheap (USD $0,50 per hour). Oh, and Angeles is really close to the airport I fly out of tomorrow, so transport shouldn't be an issue, which was another main motivation in leaving Manila today.
So that's it. I think the Philippines is a pretty nice country. The food is not the greatest, and it may not have the ancient heritage of places like Burma or Cambodia, but the people are very friendly. It is, curiously, mostly off the backpacker trail, although that could change in a few years. It is an extremely poor country, but there is a large elite class (maybe 10% of the country) who, it appears, live in standards compareable to Singapore. There are many links between Philippines and the US.... there are many Americans living here (often older men with philipina wives...), and there are many Philipinos in the US, along with countless more who want to be there. I wouldn't mind coming back... next time I could see Pinatubo, and Vigan, and Cebu... but this will do it for now. I'm glad to have seen another Southeast Asian country... soon enough I hope to have seen them all.... well maybe except for East Timor.
From Angeles, Philipines, thanks for reading!